All this hut living can take its toll on the complexion. Have engineered A Big Escape.
No one quite does the wellness hotel thing quite like the Austrians. Just over the mountain (you could hike in two hours – I called a taxi) is the four-star Übergossene Alm Hotel, just above the village of Dienten. In its many decades of hospitality, no one has enjoyed nor perhaps needed a spa treatment (read: bath) quite as much as I. A therapeutic and restorative facial was professionally administered by Nora, recently arrived from Frankfurt. (Do Sennerins have facials?, you may justifiably ask. In olden times, which was only a few years ago in the alm world, they actually bathed in milk.) Then I had a whip round as many of the rooms as I could. Laconium, Kneipp way, Stubensauna, even the mysteriously names Room of Sin… a dozen different steam and sauna and relaxation rooms are lovingly laid out for happy supine guests. A final rinse in the indoor-outdoor pool with a stunning aspect that gazes right on the mountain face should have cleansed most of the eau de cow away. Topped up with an excellent schnitzel, I return to the hut.
It is, I decide, a nice place to come back to.
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